BBBack in Bangalore

Except not.

Just got into Delhi this morning after forty-some odd hours on a train and booked a flight straight away to Leh, capital of the semi-state of Ladakh. Now, Ladakh is my antidote to the heat of the south. In the heart of the Himalaya, in the same general region as K2, this is said to be the only still-remaining home of untouched Tibetan-influenced tantric Buddhism in the world. It also contains a little town that's supposed to be the coldest inhabited place on earth behind only some town in Siberia.

I'm flying in and out because all roads, which go through some of the highest passes in the world, have been snow-closed for months. I'm very excited about all this and very much hoping that I have enough layers of clothing to pull this thing off. The plan is to make a return to the California winter in a month or so feel absolutely tropical. It's hard to imagine the plan not working.

Delhi. I still don't really know what to say about Delhi except that she's lost her fangs. The sky is almost blue today. The pollution has miraculously parted, making the Delhi air breathable! I know my way around town, I know how much things I want are supposed to cost, have become much better at haggling, standing my ground against the particular brand of Indian scammers and so forth since I first stumbled, confused, through town on my way to Nepal. So back into the mountains! Back into the cold! Bring on the red nose! Bring on the shivers and daydreams of warmth and the "why am I here?"s!

I'll post photos soon if I can find an internet connection. Promise.

PS I had the opportunity to pay a very lacklustre visit to the largest remaining mangrove forest in the world. I'm (bittersweetly) happy to report that it is not being damaged by tourism. The average visiter can no more wander through this tiger-laden treasure, spanning two countries, than secure a private audience with the Pope.